Kungsleden: Trekking Winter (Travel Journal)

Day 13

As we see the breakfast buffet the first time we feel like we have to eat it all. After all, we have to get all the money back somewhere.

The sky is cloudy today and it’s snowing like crazy. We take it as a sign to spare our tired bones another day of hiking. So we are going to take the bus to Nikkaluokta. At the reception we get the info: the bus leaves 11 am. Shortly before eleven, we are in the position… but no bus… we are waiting a while…nothing.

Finally, on renewed demand: there is no bus! The staff from the reception misunderstood us (he is not really talking to us just answering with one-word answers …).
After all, we learn that there is a scooter service that runs regularly. The scooter should be there at 2 pm. Again just before two, we are back in position… no scooter… Aaargh! slowly but steady I’m getting impatient. I go back to the reception… and try to gather new information. The newest information is now the scooter is here at 2 pm but leaves at 3 pm. Just before 3 pm, we are still sitting there waiting. I am already on the way to my friend at the reception, as finally comes the scooter driver!

The trailer is fortunately big enough to accommodate us and our luggage. Then the race ride starts!
It is snowing more and more. The visibility is not very far. But it is relatively warm (-8 degrees). The track is very bumpy, sometimes we are even jumping. Every corner or turn is a tight one. It is so much fun!!!

After about 45 min we are arriving in Nikkaluokta and I feel a bit sick in my stomach.

Nikkaluokta church
Nikkaluokta church ©Jarno Hein

Nikkaluokta is a real surprise to us! In contrast to the modern hotel complex in Kebnekaise, there are several small huts. The area is owned by this Sami family since generations. (Sami’s are the original inhabitants of Lapland).

The main building is a modern, architectural masterpiece: large windows, bright wooden beams and a huge, open fireplace in the middle of the room! The culture of the indigenous people is present everywhere despite all modernity: Reindeer antlers on the walls, history books of the people lie out, and traditional music meets the space.
We are impressed!

Library in Nikkaluoktas main building
Library in Nikkaluoktas main building ©Jarno Hein

Also, Nikkaluokta is way cheaper than Kebnekaise. We rent our own cottage with kitchen, bathroom, and electricity. Everything is very chic and homely furnished.

Outside it is still snowing …

2 Comments Add yours

  1. Vera says:

    Hey guys,
    some friends and I want to do a similar trip. We have a few questions as it is kind of hard to find information online. Did you bring avalanche safety equipment? How many kilometers did you walk a day? And are there huts between Abiskojaure & Alesjaure?
    Thanks for your help!!

    1. Christian says:

      Hey Vera, on this route you don’t need to take avalanche protection. But of course it depends on the tour you want to do.
      Between Abiskojaure & Alesjaure there is a basic hut (a hut with stove and toilet, nothing else). We have marked it on the map and also in the gpx data. If you have more questions or want to discuss your final route in detail, let me know. I’ll be happy to help. All the best Christian

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